 |
| Figure
1. Mule deer are the largest deer
in Washington. (Washington Department of
Fish and Wildlife.) |
|
|
Deer are among
the most familiar animals of Washington, and in many places they
are the largest wildlife that people encounter. Their aesthetic
beauty is appreciated and admired, although their fondness for garden
and landscape plants tries some peoples’ patience.
Two
species and four subspecies of deer occur in the state
Rocky Mountain
mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus hemionus, Fig. 1, 2),
or mule deer, inhabit areas east of the Cascades in Washington,
preferring open forests and sagebrush meadows.
During summer,
mule deer are tan to light brown; during winter, they are a salt-and-pepper
gray. They have large, dark-edged ears, from whence they derive
their name. The 7 to 8 inch tail of a mule deer is white, except
for a black tip. Mule deer are the largest deer in Washington. Adult
buck (males) weigh up to 250 pounds; adult doe (females) weigh 120
to 170 pounds.
Columbian
black-tailed deer (Odocoileus hemionus columbianus) are
our most common deer subspecies. They occur from the crest of the
Cascades west to the ocean, preferring brushy, logged lands and
coniferous forests.
Many of the
physical characteristics of black-tailed deer are similar to those
of the larger mule deer. The tail is broader and the backside of
the tail is covered with dark brown hair that grades to black near
the tip. When alarmed or fleeing from danger, the tail may be raised,
displaying the broad, white underside. Adult black-tailed deer bucks
weigh 140 to 200 pounds and adult does weigh 90 to 130 pounds.
 |
| Figure
2. Characteristics to help identify Washington deer. (Washington
Department of Fish and Wildlife.) |
White-tailed
deer (Odocoileus virginianus idahoensis, Fig. 2) occur
in eastern Washington on farmlands, in low-elevation stream and
river corridors, and near populated areas.
White-tailed
deer are usually reddish tan in summer and brownish gray in winter.
They derive their name from their broad, 10 to 11 inch long tail.
When alarmed, white-tailed deer raise their flaglike tail, displaying
the white underside. White-tailed bucks weigh 150 to 200 pounds
and adult does tip the scales at 110 to 140 pounds.
Columbian
white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus leucurus) are
found in limited areas along the lower Columbia River. Once common
in other areas, this species was federally listed as an Endangered
species in Washington and Oregon in 1967.
Hybrids of mule
deer/black-tailed deer and mule deer/white-tailed subspecies are
known to occur. Mule deer/black-tailed deer hybrids are common where
their ranges overlap. Mule deer/white-tailed deer hybrids are not
common, but are occasionally seen where both species occur in close
proximity.
Facts about
Washington Deer
Food
and Feeding Habits
- Deer eat
a wide variety of plants, but their main food item is browse—the
growing tips of trees and shrubs. In late winter and early spring,
deer eat grass, clover, and other herbaceous plants (Table 2).
- Deer also
eat fruit, nuts, acorns, fungi, lichens, and farm and garden
crops if available.
- For their
first few weeks of life, fawns thrive on milk, which is more
than twice as rich in total solids as the best cow milk.
- Deer eat
rapidly and, being ruminants, initially chew their food only
enough to swallow it. This food is stored in a stomach called
the “rumen.” From there it is regurgitated, then
re-chewed before being swallowed again, entering a second stomach
where digestion begins. From there it is passed into a third
and then a fourth stomach, finally entering the intestine.
Shelter
and Range Needs
- Deer are
sometimes referred to as “edge” species, meaning
they thrive at the interface of openings and cover patches.
This allows deer to feed in productive openings while being
close to escape cover.
- Many wooded
suburban environments, such as parks, greenbelts, golf courses,
and roadsides, meet the needs of deer.
- Mule deer
can move long distances during spring and fall migrations to
avoid mountain snow. Mule deer summering in the Cascades migrate
as far as 80 miles to reach adequate winter range.
- Black-tailed
and white-tailed deer normally reside within a ½ to 3
square-mile area; in mountainous locations, they move to lower
elevations for the winter.
Reproduction
and Family Structure
- Deer breed
during a rutting season that normally occurs in November and
December. Bucks compete for the right to breed using ritualized
posturing and movements, and occasionally through intense fighting.
- Unlike
elk, deer bucks do not herd groups of females; however, a single
mature buck may breed with several females.
- Pregnancy
lasts 180 to 200 days. Younger does give birth to one fawn,
while does three to nine years of age and in good condition
often have twins. White-tailed deer will occasionally have triplets.
- Newborn
fawns nurse soon after birth and can walk on spindly legs almost
immediately.
- Adult
bucks take no part in raising fawns, and generally remain solitary
or form bachelor groups throughout the summer.
- Family
groups usually consist of a doe and her fawns, and sometimes
her fawns from the previous year. Occasionally, groups of several
does may be seen together.
- In winter,
deer may be observed in larger groups of 15 to 30, usually grouping
because they are concentrated in limited winter habitat.
Mortality
and Longevity
- Cougars,
bears, coyotes, and domestic dogs prey on adult deer; young
fawns fall victim to these species as well as to eagles and
bobcats.
- Hunting,
vehicles, and diseases all take their toll on deer. In many
deer populations, hunting dampens the effects of other mortality
factors; as hunting mortality decreases, other forms of mortality
tend to increase, and vice versa.
- Few deer
live longer than ten years, and most live for no more than five.
All
About Antlers
One unique
characteristic of the deer family is their antlers. While horns
remain permanently affixed to the skull, antlers are shed every
year. The exception to this rule is the American pronghorn antelope;
they shed their horn sheaths once each year (the pronghorn’s
bony horn cores are not shed). Washington state species that grow
antlers each year include deer, elk, moose, mountain caribou,
and bighorn sheep. Antlers form beneath a covering of living skin.
This skin, often called velvet, is complete with hair, a very
sensitive nerve network, and blood vessels. When antler growth
is complete the velvet dries, shreds, and peels off, leaving the
hard, mineralized antler ready for the breeding season.
 |
Figure
3. A deer’s first antlers are fully grown spikes or
small, forked antlers with two points.
(Drawing by Darrell Pruett.) |
Male
fawns develop buttons (small bumps on top of the head) at six to
eight months of age. These buttons are the rudimentary beginnings
of the young buck’s first antler set. Just before the fawn’s
first birthday, these velvet-covered buttons begin to elongate,
growing from bony extensions of the skull known as pedicels. By
September these first antlers are fully grown spikes, or small,
forked antlers with two points (Fig. 3).
Each year,
the antlers tend to grow in mass and diameter. Older bucks tend
to have more antler points than younger bucks, but the number
of points is not a reliable indicator of actual age. Antler size
and conformation also respond to nutrition, and thus serve to
advertise the physical condition of the buck. Rich feeding in
captivity has produced five-point antlers on yearlings, while
a meager food supply can limit even dominant bucks to forks. Bucks
generally attain adult-size antlers when they are four to five
years of age, but the size and weight of the antlers may continue
to increase each year until age ten.
Antlers serve
to establish dominance hierarchies among bucks. Big antlers, like
bright feathers on male songbirds, are an example of fitness evolved
through sexual selection. Because large antlers mean a buck has
either survived many years, has superior genetics, or uses high-quality
areas, bucks with large antlers make good sires for a doe’s
fawn. Does tend to select dominant bucks with large antlers for
their mates, and this selection enhances the success of bucks
with large antlers even more.
Bucks carry
their antlers through the fall, dropping them between late December
and early March. Hormonal changes cause a weakening of the bone
at the tip of the pedicel, where the antler-growing center is
located, and the pedicel/antler connection eventually becomes
so weak that the antler separates and falls from the pedicel.
Most antlers
that have been on the ground for more than a few weeks will show
considerable signs of gnawing by smaller animals, and after a
year most of the antler points will have been considerably shortened
by these mineral craving critters. Dropped antlers are chewed
by mice, rats, squirrels, hares, and porcupines, helping them
to sharpen their front teeth while supplying them with calcium,
phosphorus, and other minerals. (For additional information, see
“Elk Rubs” and “Collecting
Antlers” in Elk.)
Viewing
Deer
Deer often
become very habitual in their activities. They show up at the
same time and follow the same trails, taking paths of least resistance.
Although deer may be active at any time of day, they are most
active near dawn and dusk (a pattern of activity called “crepuscular”).
Typically, deer feed in open habitats such as meadows and clearcuts,
retreating to more secure areas, such as thickets and closed canopy
forests, to rest and chew their cud.
To observe
deer, position yourself at dawn or dusk near cover in a good deer-feeding
area. Remain absolutely still, because deer are alert for any
movement. They also have a good sense of smell; stay downwind
of the feeding area to prevent deer from detecting your scent.
Deer in wild hunted areas will probably not stay around long if
they notice you; deer in areas where hunting is not permitted
are more likely to tolerate your presence.
Conditions
in the fall can make for good deer viewing. Bucks are battling
each other for females and are not as concerned about staying
hidden. Leafless trees afford you greater visibility, and when
it is raining there is less chance of you being heard crunching
through an area. However, be aware of open hunting seasons during
this time of year and wear bright orange clothing for your safety.
Winter can
be a good time to view deer because they are often concentrated
at lower elevations. This is a critical time for deer and, if
harassed, deer will expend vital energy to flee the harassment.
However, during winter deer can often be observed without harassment
by using binoculars and spotting scopes to scan open, sunny areas,
especially those with significant shrub cover.
Finally, never
approach a deer closely; if threatened it can cause serious injury.
Doe deer especially will go to great lengths to defend their young.
 |
Figure
4.
Deer tracks are 1½ to 3¼ inches long. The
smallest prints belong to fawns and the largest to mature
bucks. The small dewclaws shown here on a mule deer track
may not register.
(From Pandell and Stall, Animal Tracks
of the Pacific Northwest.) |
Tracks and
Trails
Deer
tracks are easy to identify. In a normal hoof print, the two roughly
teardrop-shaped halves print side by side to form a split heart
(Fig. 4). When a deer is walking on a slippery surface, such as
mud or snow, its hooves are likely to be spread into a V, which
helps keep the deer from sliding forward.
Deer have
regular routes through their home range; these become well-worn
trails that look a little like narrow human footpaths. The trails
are clear of low vegetation, but are not bare unless they are
in shade or are heavily used by deer and other mammals.
Droppings
| |
| Figure
5. Rather than biting off vegetation like a horse does,
deer grasp the plants between the upper pad and their lower
incisors, and with a quick upward jerk of the head, snap or
tear off a mouthful of vegetation. Deer browsing results in
twig ends having a ragged appearance; plants browsed by rabbits,
porcupines, and other rodents appear neatly clipped. |
|
Figure
6. As shown here in a lateral view of a mule deer skull,
deer lack upper incisors and canine teeth, and must press
foods between their hard upper palates and their bottom teeth.
(From Verts and Carraway, Land Mammals of Oregon.) |
Deer droppings
vary greatly in size and shape, but are easy to identify. Most
of the year they are deposited in a group of 20 to 30 dark cylindrical
pellets with one flat or concave end and one pointed end. Individual
pellets are ½ to ¾ inch long; individual piles are
4 to 6 inches in diameter. When deer are feeding on moist vegetation,
the pellets stick together and form clumps. New droppings have
a shiny, wet appearance for a few days and then lighten in color
as they age.
Feeding
Areas
In
areas where many deer live, a noticeable “browse line”
appears on trees where the deer have repeatedly reached up to
eat low-hanging twigs and branches. Similarly, the tops of shrubs
may be browsed, leaving only a few inside branches extending upward.
Browsing seldom occurs more than 4 feet above the ground, except
in areas with deep snow.
Browsing by
deer can usually be identified since twig ends deer have browsed
have a ragged appearance, while those browsed by rabbits, porcupines,
and other rodents have a neat, clipped appearance. This is because
deer lack upper incisors and canine teeth, and cannot nip off
twigs. Instead they must press foods between their hard upper
palates and their bottom teeth, and jerk their heads up to tear
it free (Figs. 5 and 6).
However, when
deer browse new growth they leave a clean, blunt stem-end, where
the tender shoots break off. The height of the clipped plant will
then be the indicator of what species ate it. When browse and
other green foods are no longer available, deer strip bark from
young trees.
 |
| Figure
7. Bucks rub their antlers against trees and shrubs. This
leaves the bark in a shredded condition, often with long frayed
strips of bark hanging at the top of the barked area. Rubbing
is generally restricted to an area between 1.5 to 3.5 feet
above ground. |
Rubbing
Sites
Bucks
scrape off the velvet covering their antlers by rubbing them against
young trees and shrubs (Fig. 7). These rubbing sites also communicate
their presence and breeding readiness to other deer. This communication
has several facets: the visual sign left by the buck’s rubbing,
chemical signals left from glands on the buck’s face, and
the sound of the buck thrashing branches of the tree on which
it is rubbing.
Although antlers
are bonewhite when the velvet is first removed, they become stained
various shades of brown as plant compounds accumulate through
constantly being rubbed by brush and trees. The color results
from a chemical reaction of the plant compounds with the air,
in a process known as oxidation.
Bedding
Areas
An area of flattened vegetation 3 to 4 feet long and 2 to 3 feet
wide indicates where a deer has bedded down. Deer sleep in dense
cover or tall grasses and may return to the same spot over many
days. Since deer often travel in small groups, there may be several
“deer beds” in the same vicinity. During winter, similarly
sized depressions in the snow, often littered with old hairs,
characterize bed-sites.
Calls
The best-known vocalization is an alarm whistle, “snort,”
or “blow,” made when deer exhale forcefully through
their nostrils. The sound resembles a sudden release of high-pressure
air. The snort is a danger call that alerts all deer in the area
of a potential predator.
Older fawns
commonly bleat when frightened, and older deer sometimes do as
well. Doe deer call to their hidden fawns with a soft, gentle
mewing sound, and fawns respond quickly to this call by seeking
the side of their mother. Bucks make a grunt during the rut.
Tips
for Attracting Deer
Although property
owners with large acreage can provide significant deer habitat,
those with small acreage can also contribute. Keep in mind that
deer may damage ornamental plants and gardens, and might also
attract animals that prey on deer, such as cougar and bear.
The best
way to attract deer to your property is to protect and maintain
deer habitat:
 |
Figure
8. In the spring it is a perfectly natural occurrence to
come across a fawn that is seemingly by itself.
(Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife.) |
Deer Fawns and
What to Do If You Find One To
reduce the risks of a predator locating her fawn, a doe seeks seclusion
just prior to birth, trying to be less conspicuous by avoiding other
deer. For the first few weeks of the fawn’s life, the doe
keeps the fawn hidden except for suckling bouts.The doe may also
feed and bed a considerable distance from the fawn’s bed site.This
way, even if a predator detects the doe, the fawn may still have
a chance of avoiding detection.
To further
keep her fawn safe from predators, the doe consumes the fawn’s
urine and droppings to help keep the fawn as scent-free as possible.
The droppings provide the mother with further nutrition at a time
when it is much needed.
When not nursing,
the fawn curls up in a bed site and remains motionless, its white
spots blending in well with the sun-flecked ground. Fawns lose
their spots at 90 to 120 days of age, when they begin growing
their winter coats.
Every year,
wildlife departments and wildlife rehabilitators receive calls
about “orphaned” fawns. Callers are told that in the
spring it is a perfectly natural occurrence to come across a fawn
that is seemingly by itself in the woods.The fawn is probably
not alone; its mother is nearby, aware, and attentive.
The advice
to anyone encountering a fawn lying quietly alone in the woods
is to leave it alone. Mother will be nearby and will be taking
care of it once you move away.
If you have
handled the fawn, rub an old towel in the grass and wipe the fawn
to remove human scent. Using gloves, return the fawn to where
it was found. Fawns can often be returned to their mothers if
taken back to where they were found within eight hours.
If a fawn
appears cold, weak, thin, or injured, and its mother does not
return in approximately eight hours, it may be orphaned. In such
a case, you can call a local rehabilitator (look under “Animal”
or “Wildlife” in your phone directory) or your local
WDFW Regional
Office for the name and phone number of a rehabilitator in
your area. (For additional information, see Wildlife
Rehabilitators and Wildlife Rehabilitation.)
Preventing
Conflicts
In most places
deer are valued as watchable wildlife or as game animals. However,
where hunting is limited or no longer permitted and natural predators
are few, deer populations can increase to a point where human/deer
conflicts become a concern.
Problems associated
with high deer populations include damage to crops, ornamental
plants, restoration and reforestation projects, and deer/vehicle
collisions.
Problem areas
are often where new development has appeared in traditional deer
habitat. Those who live on the edges of new developments, or adjacent
to undeveloped areas, may experience higher deer damage than others
whose homes are within developments or otherwise buffered by urbanization.
However, deer readily adapt to human activity and are seen in
unlikely places at times.
If deer damage
is occurring on commercial property, a wildlife agent from your
local wildlife department can assist you in evaluating damage-control
options. Your local wildlife office may also have cost-share or
other programs available to help you manage deer on your property.
Deer Fences
When
deer browsing is moderate to severe, or a landowner isn’t
willing to tolerate even a limited amount of damage, fencing to
exclude deer is the only option. However, traditional deer fences
are not always practical because of appearance, zoning restrictions,
cost, or rugged terrain. In such cases, another type of barrier
described below may be appropriate.
Before
installing a deer fence, ask these questions:
- Must my
entire property be protected or only certain parts, or certain
plants?
- Is this
need temporary, such as to protect young trees for a few years?
- Are there
visual constraints, including aesthetics, or your neighbor’s
or a passerby’s view?
- Are there
any community or local government regulations or restrictions?
- Is building
a fence time- and cost-effective, or should other methods be
considered, even though they are not as effective?
Before
you build: If you decide to build or have a fence built, construct
it properly. A poorly constructed deer fence is dangerous to the
deer, and will not protect your valuable plants. If a deer fence
exists nearby, ask the property owner about its effectiveness,
its construction, and who built it. To locate a fence builder,
look under “Fence Contractors” in your phone directory.
Request references and follow up on them before hiring any contractor.
If you build
a deer fence yourself, carefully measure the area to insure the
efficient use of fence rolls. (You don’t want to end up
having to cut a small length of fence from a new and potentially
expensive roll). In addition, make sure you know where your property
line is—existing fences may not be on your property. Never
fence across an easement without notifying the necessary authority.
| |
|
Figure
9. A 6 to 8 foot woven-wire fence presents a formidable
deer (and elk) barrier when properly constructed and maintained.
The 20-year life span of a well-built fence can justify
its cost. Major materials include sturdy, rot-resistant
wooden corner posts set in concrete (optional), wooden
or studded steel T line posts, woven-wire fencing, and
gates. If needed, extensions can be attached to the top
of the fence to prevent deer or elk from jumping over.
A 2-foot high band of chicken wire can be added to the
bottom to exclude rabbits and hares.
|
Figure
10. If two widths of woven-wire field fencing are combined,
secure them together with hog rings at approximately 18-inch
intervals. To allow small mammals access through the fence,
invert the lower fence run so the larger openings are at
the bottom.
(Drawings
by Jenifer Rees.) |
Fencing
facts:
- It is easier
to build a fence while the land is vacant; when possible, fence
an area before you plant an orchard or a garden.
- Enclose
the entire area needing protection (including driveways). Deer
will wander the perimeter of the fenced area until they find
an opening.
- Keep fencing
material flush to the ground (including under gates). Fill dips
with gravel, rocks, logs, or other suitable material. Incredibly,
deer will try to either crawl under or squeeze through a fence
before jumping over it.
- Deer can
be excluded from areas with a properly constructed and maintained
6 to 8-foot high fence (Figs. 9 and 10). The higher fence will
be needed in an area with many deer and a low supply of wild
food.
- A board
fence or hedge that prevents deer from seeing a safe landing
zone on the other side need be only 5 1/2 feet high.
- The larger
the area being enclosed, the more travel patterns will be disrupted,
and the more pressure the fence will receive.
- Large
areas with high deer pressure should be fenced with woven-wire
deer fencing or a high-tensile electric wire. Heavy-duty black
polypropylene deer fencing is commercially available and useful
where other fencing is visually obtrusive.
- Information
on corner bracing, stretching wire, and other fence-building
details can be obtained from fencing material suppliers.
|
Figure
11. An electric fence with eight wires evenly spaced to
80 inches is believed to be adequate to keep deer out of an
enclosed area. The fence should alternate positive and negative
wires. Twisting aluminum foil dipped in peanut oil onto electric
fence wires helps “initiate” animals to the shocking
properties of the fence. The animals will lick the treated
foil and receive a full-charge shock.
(Drawing by Jenifer Rees.) |
Electric
fences: A properly designed and maintained electric fence
can be very effective at preventing deer from entering an enclosed
area as small as a vegetable garden or an area as large as a commercial
orchard. One or two hot wires can also be strategically placed
to keep other animals out of chicken coops, ponds, and other areas.
Electric fences
work by delivering a high-voltage but low amperage jolt that won’t
set fire to plants or injure animals or humans. Some fences are
built with alternating positive and negative wires so an animal
receives a shock when it touches both wires simultaneously. More
commonly, the animal completes the circuit when it touches a hot
wire while standing on the ground. The advantage of this design
is that the animal only has to touch one wire to receive a shock.
One disadvantage is that plants must be kept from contacting the
wire or the fence will short circuit. (Newer low-impedance chargers
make this less of a problem.)
A fence with
eight wires evenly spaced to 80 inches is believed to be adequate
to keep deer out of an enclosed area (Fig. 11). Due to the variables
affecting your selection of a power source, and fence design and
operation, it is best to consult a reputable dealer for the specifics
regarding its use (look under “Fence Contractors”
in your phone directory). Information is also available from farm
supply centers. Most home improvement centers carry units suitable
for protecting gardens. Consult your local zoning office and neighborhood
covenants to determine if electric fences are permitted where
you live.
Here is
some general information on electric fences:
- An electric
fence is not a physical barrier to entry. It acts as a psychological
barrier that some deer will continually test. Because of this,
it is important that your fence be properly designed, installed,
powered, and maintained.
- Maintenance
visits are required at least every two weeks to check the voltage
and to rectify any problems, such as fixing sagging wires. However,
inspections every two days will be necessary during the first
three weeks after installation. This is to make certain that
animals encountering the fence for the first time don’t
damage the fence or get injured.
- An electric
fence can be less expensive to build than woven wire fences,
but requires more effort to maintain and will not last as long.
- Recently
available electric polywire/tape fencing is much wider and is
meant to also work as a visual repellent. It is less expensive,
relatively portable, and easy to install. Also, it can easily
be removed for mowing or farming and moved to other locations
as the need arises.
- Poor conductivity
occurs in rocky or dry ground. Most projects fail because of
poor grounding.
|
| Figure
12. A mini deer fence should be at least 5 feet high,
placed far enough out from the plant to prevent deer from
accessing the plant and causing damage, and be firmly staked
to the ground. Prior to installation, remove all grass and
weeds within the barrier. Add mulch to reduce maintenance
needs. A 2-foot high band of chicken wire can be added to
the bottom to exclude rabbits. |
|
|
| Figure
13. A variation of a mini-deer fence that allows for mowing.
Note the plastic guard to prevent damage from mowing and gnawing
animals. |
Figure
14. Loosely wrapping vulnerable areas with commercially
available tree guards or chicken wire can protect tree bark.
(Drawings
by Jenifer Rees.) |
Mini-Barriers
Barriers to protect small areas, individual plants, or vulnerable
parts of plants can be purchased or made at home. These have the
advantage of being less expensive and obtrusive than full fences,
allowing deer access to surrounding food plants while protecting
others. They can also protect plants from bucks rubbing their
antlers, which breaks branches and strips bark off trunks.
To prevent
deer from pushing over or moving a mini fence surrounding a tree
or shrub, the fence should be 5 feet high and staked to the ground
(Figs. 12 and 13).
Netting—normally
sold to protect berries and fruit from birds—can be draped
over individual plants or used as a temporary fence. However,
deer can easily break lightweight netting with their hooves to
get to desirable plants and songbirds can get entangled in excess
netting. Stronger netting material is commercially available from
bird-control outlets and companies selling polypropylene deer
fencing. When draped over plants, any netting will need continual
rearranging to protect new growth.
An inexpensive
and subtle deer barrier can be made from 100-pound test monofilament
fishing line tied to sturdy, 5-foot tall stakes, or attached to
a structure. At a 12-inch spacing, fishing line works best to
protect small enclosures, such as surrounding several rose bushes.
Commercially
available tree guards protect trees from damage done to the bark
from deer antlers and gnawing from other wildlife (Fig. 7). They
can be wrapped around nearly any size tree, cut to different heights,
and expand as the tree grows (Fig. 14).
Plastic or
nylon tubes, netting, and bud caps have all been used successfully
to protect small transplants and growing tree tips. For small
plants, use tubes that match the plant’s height and allow
room for growth. Be sure to hold the tube upright with a wood
or metal stake.
Cattle
Guards
Some
people see cattle guards as eyesores, but they provide the most
effective protection for ungated driveways on properties that
are otherwise fenced to keep deer out.
Before installing
a cattle guard, it’s important to determine how many deer
use the driveway (assuming a deer fence encloses the perimeter
of your property). In areas where deer concentrations are heavy,
deer will test the cattle guard and are known to jump over one
that is undersized.
Most cattle
guards are about 7 feet wide and 10 to 14 feet long. You will
need a backhoe to excavate a hole and to lower the sections into
place; each section weighs over 1,000 pounds.
Repellents
Deer
repellents use a disagreeable odor or taste, or a combination
of both, to dissuade deer from eating the treated plant. They
are easy to apply and homemade solutions are inexpensive.
Numerous odor
and taste repellents have been developed to reduce deer damage,
and new products are continually becoming available. There have
been numerous studies to test the effectiveness of these repellents,
often producing conflicting results. No repellent eliminates deer
damage entirely.
| An
All-in-One Homemade Deer Repellent
Mix
the following in a 1-gallon tank sprayer:
2 beaten
and strained eggs— strain them to remove the white strings
surrounding the yolk, which otherwise will plug up your sprayer).
1 cup
milk, yogurt, buttermilk, or sour milk
2 tsp.
Tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper
20
drops essential oil of clove, cinnamon, or eucalyptus, found
in small bottles at health food stores
1 tsp.
cooking oil or dormant oil
1 tsp.
liquid dish soap
Top
off the tank with water and pump it up. Shake the sprayer
occasionally and mist onto dry foliage. One application
will last for 2 to 4 weeks in dry weather. |
Before
you apply: Most repellents function by reducing the palatability
of the treated plant to a level below other available plants.
Hence, repellent effectiveness depends upon the availability of
wild deer food. Repellents are more appropriate for short-term
rather than long-term problems and are the most practical for
non commercial users experiencing low to moderate deer damage.
Repellents
work best if applied before the deer develop a routine feeding
pattern. This means applying repellents before leaves or flower
buds emerge and as new growth appears. It’s easier and more
effective to prevent a feeding habit from
forming than to try to break an established one.
Repellent
facts:
- Spray-on
repellents need to be applied frequently to protect the new
plant growth, and will need to be reapplied after rain and long
exposure to hot, dry, or windy weather.
- Deer may
become accustomed to the same repellent over time, and eventually
ignore it. Alternating repellents may help keep deer confused
and more wary of eating your plants.
- Repellents
that are applied to plant surfaces are generally more effective
than capsules containing garlic oil, bags of hair, or other
devices that produce an odor intended to protect a specific
area.
- Finally,
before putting complete faith in a repellent, first try it on
a small area. Always use commercial repellents according to
the manufacturer’s directions.
Scare Tactics
Like
most animals, deer are neophobic (fearful of novel objects), and
many scare tactics take advantage of this behavior. However, deer
soon get accustomed to new things and damage resumes after they
realize no actual harm will come to them. As with repellents,
a given tactic will work on some deer, but no single one seems
to work on all of them. If the animals are already use to feeding
in the area, scare tactics will last an even shorter length of
time.
Scare tactics
can be visual (scarecrows, bright lights, spare blankets), auditory
(noisemaking devices such as exploders, whistles, etc.), or olfactory
(predator urine or droppings).
One recent
innovation is a motion sensor combined with a sprinkler that attaches
to a hose. When a deer comes into its adjustable, motion-detecting
range, a sharp burst of water is sprayed at the animal. This device
appears to be effective by combining a physical sensation with
a startling stimulus. Similar in approach but less effective are
radios and lights hooked up to a motion detector.
A dog can
help keep deer away, especially if it is large and awake. To keep
the dog at home while simultaneously repelling deer from your
property, use a “dog trolley” or an invisible (buried
electric) fence, where practical. Avoid tethering a dog near stairways
and fences, and provide at least 15 feet of cleared space for
it to move around in. Do not use a choke chain, and remove all
debris that could tangle or injure your dog. Provide shade, water,
and shelter for the dog at all times.
Landscaping
with Deer-Resistant Plants
Although a
deer fence or other barrier is the best insurance against damage,
landscaping with deer-resistant plants is a more aesthetic alternative.
In addition, there may be areas where a deer fence isn’t
practical. A walk or drive through the neighborhood or a visit
to the neighbors can give you an idea of what plants are less
palatable to deer.
Whether or
not a particular plant will be eaten depends upon several factors:
the deer’s nutritional needs, its previous feeding experience,
plant palatability, time of year, and availability of wild foods.
When preferred foods are scarce, there are few plants that deer
will not eat. A large deer population can create competition for
food, causing deer to eat many plants that they normally would
avoid.
Deer develop
predictable travel patterns, and prior damage is often a good
indicator of potential future problems. Any new plantings added
to an existing landscape or garden already suffering from severe
deer damage will likely also be browsed.
The list of
deer-resistant (or close to it) plants is a general guide. Deer
sometimes will browse the plants listed and sometimes will avoid
plants not listed. Note: A few vigorous native plant
species are included in both Tables 1 and 2.
Tips
for Driving in Deer Country
Vehicles kill
hundreds of deer each year in Washington. Deer will cross roads
at any time of the day or night, creating a hazard for the vehicles,
passengers, and deer.
More than
half of all deer/vehicle collisions occur in October and November.
The rut (mating season) and peak days for hunting may account
for this.
Here are
driving tips to help prevent collisions:
- Deer are
most active at dawn and dusk. Be especially watchful during
these times.
- One deer
crossing the road may be a sign that more deer are about to
cross. Watch for other deer-- they will move fast to catch up
with leaders, mothers, or mates and may not pay attention to
traffic.
- When you
see brake lights, it could be because the driver ahead of you
has spotted a deer. Stay alert as you drive by the spot, as
more deer could try to cross.
- Wonder
why the person ahead is driving so slowly? The driver may know
where to slow down and be extra alert for deer. Don’t
be too quick to pass, and watch out.
- Take note
of deer-crossing signs and drive accordingly. They were put
there for a reason.
- Try to
drive more slowly at night, giving yourself time to see a deer
with your headlights. Lowering the brightness of your dashboard
lights slightly will make it easier to see deer.
- Be especially
watchful when traveling near steep roadside banks. Deer will
pop onto the roadway with little or no warning.
- Be aware
that headlights confuse deer and may cause them to move erratically
or stop. Young animals in particular do not recognize that vehicles
are a threat.
- Deer hooves
slip on pavement and a deer may fall in front of your vehicle
just when you think it is jumping away.
- Deer whistles,
small devices that can be mounted on your vehicle, emit a shrill
sound that supposedly alerts deer nearby. (Humans cannot hear
the sound.) How well the devices work is not scientifically
known.
If a collision
with a deer seems imminent, take your foot off the accelerator
and brake lightly. But—and this is critical--keep a firm
hold on the steering wheel while keeping the vehicle straight.
Do not swerve in an attempt to miss the deer. Insurance adjusters
claim that more car damage and personal injury is caused when
drivers attempt to avoid collision with a deer and instead collide
with guardrails or roll down grades.
If you accidentally
hit and kill a deer, try to move the animal off the road--providing
you can do so in complete safety. Otherwise, report the location
of the deer’s body to the city, county, or state highway
department with jurisdiction for the road. If no action is taken,
contact the non-emergency number of the local police department,
and the agency will arrange for the body to be removed. This will
prevent scavengers from being attracted onto the road, and eliminate
a potential traffic hazard.
If the deer
is wounded, call the non-emergency number of the local police
department and describe the animal’s location. Emphasize
that the injured deer is a traffic hazard to help ensure that
someone will come quickly.
Public
Health Concerns
Deer are not
considered a significant source of infectious diseases that can
be transmitted to humans or domestic animals. However, as you
would when dealing with any wild animal, it is recommended that
you wear rubber gloves if you need to handle a sick or dead deer,
and wash your hands afterwards. Fully cook all deer meat to 160°F.
Anyone who
believes they may have contracted any disease from a deer should
consult a physician as soon as possible, explaining to the doctor
the possible sources of infection.
Legal
Status
Because legal
status, hunting restrictions, and other information about deer
change, contact your WDFW
Regional Office for updates.
Mule deer,
black-tailed deer, and white-tailed deer are classified as game
animals (WAC
232-12-007). A hunting license and open season are required
to hunt them.
After obtaining
a permit issued by the Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW),
a property owner or the owner’s immediate family, employee,
or tenant may kill a deer on that property if it is damaging crops
(RCW
77.36.030). You must notify WDFW immediately after taking
a deer in these situations.
The Columbian
white-tailed deer is classified as a state and federal Endangered
animal and may not be hunted or killed (WAC
232-12-014).
Additional
Information
Books
Conover,
Michael. Resolving Human—Wildlife Conflicts: The Science
of Wildlife Damage Management. Boca Raton, FL: Lewis Publishers,
2002.
Hygnstrom,
Scott E., et al. Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage.
Lincoln, NE: University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Institute of Agriculture
and Natural Resources, 1994. (Available from: University of Nebraska
Cooperative Extension, 202 Natural
Resources Hall, Lincoln, NE 68583-0819; phone: 402-472-2188; also
see Internet Sites below.)
Juhre, Robert
G. Preventing Deer Damage. 3rd edition. Kettle Falls, WA,
1998. (Available from: Robert G. Juhre, 1723 Mountain Garden Way,
Kettle Falls, WA 99141-9771.)
Link, Russell.
Landscaping for Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest. Seattle:
University of Washington Press and the Washington Department of
Fish and Wildlife, 1999.
Maser, Chris.
Mammals of the Pacific Northwest: From the Coast to the High
Cascades. Corvalis: Oregon State University Press, 1998.
Shackleton,
David. Royal British Columbia Museum Handbook: Hoofed Mammals
of British Columbia. Vancouver, BC: University of British
Columbia Press, 1999.
Verts, B.
J., and Leslie N. Carraway. Land Mammals of Oregon. Los
Angeles: University of California Press, 1998.
Internet
Resources
Benner’s
Deer Fencing
Burke
Museum’s Mammals of Washington
International
Wildlife Rehabilitation Council
U.S.
Forest Service Wildlife Species Life Form Information
Prevention
and Control of Wildlife Damage
Scarecrow
(The
motion-activated sprinkler by Contech)
The
Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management
The
Wildlife Management Web Site
Wildlife
Control Supplies
Woodland
Fish and Wildlife Project.
Publications may be ordered or downloaded from Washington State
University Cooperative Extension, 800-723-1763.
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