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| Figure
1. Moles have broad front feet, the toes
of which terminate in stout claws faced outward for digging.
The Townsend mole is shown here.
(Photo from American Society of Mammalogists.) |
|
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Though moles
are the bane of many lawn owners, they make a significant positive
contribution to the health of the landscape. Their extensive tunneling
and mound building mixes soil nutrients and improves soil aeration
and drainage. Moles also eat many lawn and garden pests, including
cranefly larvae and slugs.
Moles spend almost their entire lives underground and have much
in common with pocket gophers—small weak eyes, small hips
for turning around in tight places, and velvety fur that is reversible
to make backing up easy. Moles also have broad front feet, the toes
of which terminate in stout claws faced outward for digging (Fig.
1). (The Chehalis Indian word for mole translates into "hands turned
backward.")
However, moles are predators of worms and grubs, while gophers are
herbivores. (See comparison of their scull shapes in Figure 2.)
Three species of moles occur in the Washington. Curiously, moles
occur on only a few of the islands in Puget Sound.
At
a total length of 8 to 9 inches, the slate black Townsend mole
(Scapanus townsendii), is the largest mole species in North
America. It occurs in meadows, fields, pastures, lawns, and golf
courses west of the Cascade mountains.
 
Click
image to enlarge
Figure
2. Lateral views of the Camas pocket gopher (A) and
the Townsend mole (B) show the difference in teeth. A pocket
gopher's teeth are adapted for gnawing on plant material
and a mole's long jaws and 44 teeth are adapted for consuming
small insects.
(From Verts and Carraway, Land Mammals of Oregon.)
|
The
Pacific mole (Scapanus orarius, Fig. 1), also known
as the coast mole, is similar in appearance to the Townsend mole,
and ranges from 6 to 7 inches in total length. It inhabits drier,
brushier, and more wooded habitats than the Townsend mole, including
interior sagebrush areas.
At
a total length of 4 to 5 inches, the gray to black shrew-mole
(Neurotrichus gibbsii) is the smallest mole in North America
and is unique to the Pacific Northwest. These tiny moles have many
shrew-like features—they lack the mole's developed forelegs
for digging—and are found in shady ravines and along stream
banks. Unlike other moles, which create characteristic molehills,
shrewmoles do not create mole-hills and are commonly active above
ground.
Facts
about Washington's Moles
Territory
- Except
during the breeding season and for a female mole with her
young, moles are solitary animals that live in established
burrow systems with limited overlap into other moles' territories.
- Typically,
the ranges of neighboring male moles do not overlap, but each
male's range may overlap those of a number of females, and
female ranges may overlap with those of other females.
- Population
densities vary from one adult mole in 6 acres to more than
five adult moles per acre.
- The average
city lot will rarely harbor more than one male or two female
moles.
Food and Feeding Habits
- Although
most North American moles are insectivorous, Washington species
are somewhat omnivorous, eating both plants and animals.
- A mole's
diet is mostly insects and other invertebrates, including
earthworms, centipedes, millipedes, snails, slugs, grubs,
ants, sowbugs, termites, beetles, and crickets.
- Stomach
samples in Oregon revealed that 70 to 90 percent of the Townsend
mole's diet is earthworms; however it also ate grass roots,
vegetable crop roots and bulbs, and seeds.
- Moles
patrol their complex arrangement of tunnels in search of prey
that use or fall into the tunnels.
Nest
Sites and Reproduction
- Depending
on the species and elevation, mating can take place from winter
to early summer, producing a single litter of three to five
young.
- The nest
is constructed from soft vegetation that is matted down and
interwoven to form a compact, protective shell about 2 inches
thick. The nest is located within a cavity 5 to 18 inches
underground, usually in "high ground" to prevent the nest
from being flooded by late-winter or early spring rains.
- Green
vegetation may be added to the nest after the young are born.
As the wet plant material decays, it generates heat that is
retained in the nest cavity, keeping the young warm when their
mother is absent.
- Young
moles disperse above ground at night during the month after
weaning, forming their own territories within about 30 yards
of their birth site.
- Moles
reach sexual maturity at about ten months of age and breed
in their first winter.
Mortality
and Longevity
- Moles
may come to the surface at night to search for food, nesting
material, and new territories. Moles move slowly on the surface
and are preyed upon by owls, hawks, and snakes.
- Because
of their secluded life underground and their strong, musky
odor, moles are unpalatable to most mammalian predators; however,
raccoons and coyotes do dig them out, presumably to eat them.
- Moles
are also killed by domestic dogs and cats, but are rarely
eaten.
- Spring
floods kill many moles, especially young ones; humans also
kill many moles.
- The maximum
life span of moles ranges from four to six years.
| Notes
on Shrews
|

Figure 3. Shrews are Washington's smallest mammals.
(Photo by Jim Pruske.) |
Shrews
(Sorex spp.) are Washington's smallest mammals;
the pygmy shrew is no bigger than your entire thumb. Shrews
are also one of our most common mammals, inhabiting areas
from sea level to high mountain meadows. Even so, they are
surprisingly one of our least well-known mammals.
Shrews
are mouselike in proportion, but differ from mice in having
long, pointed muzzles and minute eyes. Most are less than
half the size of adult mice, and blackish or brownish in color,
with a pale-colored belly (Fig. 3).
Nine
species of shrews are found in Washington. The 4-inch long
vagrant shrew (Sorex vagrans) is the most widespread
species and is found in marshes, wet meadows, forests, streamsides,
and gardens throughout the state.
Shrews
prefer moist environments because their high metabolic rates
create high moisture requirements and they can easily become
dehydrated. Moist environments also tend to have a diverse
and abundant food supply.
Shrews
are preyed on by owls, snakes, and Pacific giant salamanders.
Domestic cats, opossums, foxes, and similar-size mammalian
predators kill but may not eat shrews, presumably because,
when frightened or agitated, shrews produce a musky odor from
their anal glands.
Shrews
are rarely considered pests. They will occasionally enter
homes but seldom cause any trouble other than perhaps startling
a resident. Techniques used to mouse-proof structures will
also exclude shrews. |
Signs of Moles
Moles
are active all year round at any time of day, but are rarely seen
due to their underground existence. They are best recognized by
their molehills, which they push up along their tunnel systems.
Both moles and pocket gophers construct tunnels and mounds, but
there are distinct differences (see Table 1 for comparisons).
Landscaped areas, which provide a perfect food source for moles,
are often where you see their telltale signs. The soil is kept
rich with heavy applications of organic materials such as mulch,
compost, and manure. The soil is kept moist through watering or
irrigation, and the presence of man-made borders, edgings, and
timber or stonewalls. All of these provide the perfect environment
for worms and soil insects.
Table
1. Differences between moles and pocket gophers. |
| Moles |
Pocket Gophers |
| Minute
eyes are often not visible. |
Small eyes
are clearly visible. |
| Muzzle
is long and tapering. |
Muzzle
is rounded. |
| The many
small teeth are not apparent. |
Orange,
chisel-like pairs of upper and lower incisors are apparent. |
| Mounds
are round when viewed from above. |
Mounds
are crescent- or heart-shaped when viewed from above. |
| Soil plug
is in the middle of mound and may not be distinct. |
Soil plug
is in the middle of the V shape or off to the side of the mound
and may leave a visible depression. |
| Tunnels
are often just beneath the surface, leaving a raised ridge. |
No tunnels
are visible from above ground. |
A
mole's territory is a mazelike system of connecting, intertwining
underground tunnels located at various depths (Fig. 4). It's a
perfect fortress in which to survive threats, either natural or
manmade—drought, freezes, predators, toxic gases, and other
poisons. They routinely scent-mark their tunnels while patrolling
for insects and other invertebrates that travel or fall into their
tunnel systems.

Click to enlarge
image.
Figure 4. Cross-section of a mole's runway system. A
single mole can construct 200 mounds over the course of
a winter. (Drawing by Jenifer Rees.) |
Moles
construct two kinds of tunnels: surface tunnels and deep tunnels,
or runways. Surface tunnels are located 1 to 4 inches below the
surface. These appear as 3-inch wide ridges or rips in the lawn
or in soil, or as puffed-up areas in mulch. In lawns, surface
tunnels are often held together only by the surrounding grass
roots, and you may see the ridges—or feel them as you step
on them. Surface tunnels wind around with no apparent direction
or plan; they are used once or revisited several times for feeding
purposes, and possibly for locating mates in the breeding season.
Surface tunnels connect with deeper runways that are located 3
to 12 inches below the surface, but may be as deep as 40 inches.
Deep runways are main passageways that are used daily as the mole
travels to and from surface tunnels and its nest.
Moles are fast diggers and can tunnel at a rate of 15 feet per
hour. In favorable areas, shallow tunnels can be built at a rate
of 12 inches per minute.
Digging is most pronounced in fall and winter when the soil is
moist and easy for moles to work. In periods of dry weather or
drought, moles tunnel deeper, near moist, cool areas where insects
and worms congregate—along sewer drainfields and under sidewalks,
rocky area, and shady fencerows.

Figure 5. Excavated materials are piled in roughly
circular mounds that are 6 to 24 inches in diameter and
2 to 8 inches high.
|
Molehills
To create tunnels, the mole muscles its way through the soil with
swimming motions, pushing the soil aside with alternating left
and right paw strokes and compressing it against the tunnel walls.
The large, thick, clawed forepaws do the digging, while the small
hind feet provide leverage against the tunnel sides.
The soil excavated or cleaned out from the deep tunnels is pushed
to the surface through vertical tunnels and forms the surface
mounds, or molehills.
Molehills occur in the moist, loose earth found at the edges of
woods and in fields, lawns, and other grasslands where food is
available (Fig. 5). Excavated materials are piled in roughly circular
mounds that are 6 to 24 inches in diameter and 2 to 8 inches high.
The opening to the burrow is near the center of the mound and
is always left plugged, but the plug often lacks definition.
Preventing
Conflicts
Because
of the surface tunnels and mounds they create, moles may be considered
pests in yards, ball fields, golf courses, horse pastures, and
other locations. Moles may also inadvertently heave small plants
out of the ground as they tunnel, or damage plants when their
mounds cover small seedlings. The easiest way to prevent minor
plant damage is to regularly visit problem areas, taking a few
moments to reposition or uncover plants as needed.
Moles, gophers, and voles (large mouse-like rodents which also
occupy mole tunnels) can be found in the same location, and positive
identification is needed, as control methods differ for each species.
See the handouts on gophers and voles for information.
Moles are here to stay and extermination is impractical, especially
if your property borders an area that has historically served
as a source of moles. While you may be able to remove an existing
mole population or drive moles elsewhere, if suitable conditions
exist and moles occur nearby, other moles will eventually move
into vacated areas. In addition, it is important to understand
that mole problems rarely can be resolved by a quick fix method,
but that a continuing commitment to whatever solutions are adopted
is required.
To prevent conflicts or remedy existing problems, consider
the following:
Repellents:
No repellents currently available will reliably protect lawns
or other plantings from moles. However, people mistakenly think
they have successfully repelled a mole because they don't see
new molehills for long periods following use.
The reasons for this are simple: moles are relatively solitary
animals except for when breeding and rearing young, and they have
large, complex tunnel systems that may extend for several hundred
lineal feet. Moles may work one portion of their tunnel system
for a few days and then move on some distance away to another
portion of the system, which may be in the neighbor's yard. Hence,
the application of some obnoxious substance just prior to or immediately
following the mole's shift in its feeding location will be credited
to the effect of the repellent. When the mole returns a week or
two later, the gardener is convinced it is a new mole.
Mothballs, garlic, or spearmint leaves placed in the tunnels,
and a perimeter of mole plants (Euphorbia spp.) planted
around gardens, have all produced mixed results. Similarly, ground
or broken pieces of glass, used razor blades, sections of barbed
wire, or thorned rose bush canes have all been placed in mole
tunnels. Some of these are actually more hazardous to the gardeners
themselves than to the moles.
When moles run into the unfamiliar foreign object in their tunnels,
they may simply circumvent the object by blocking those tunnels
off with soil and then proceed to dig new tunnels, just as they
do with a poorly set trap. There is no convincing evidence that
these sharp, potentially harmful items cause any mortality or
that they have resulted in the mole leaving the immediate area.
Another
Homemade Mole Repellent? |
| Commercially
available castor oil–based repellents have been scientifically
tested on moles in the Eastern United States with some success.
In theory, the repellent coats earthworms and other prey
with castor oil. This renders the prey distasteful and,
if eaten, gives the moles diarrhea. The moles supposedly
then leave the treated area in search of a new food source.
The
following home-prepared formula has been around for many
years and some gardeners swear by it; others claim it does
not work. Because moles move around within their territorial
burrow systems, repellents are very difficult to evaluate.
The
formula for the castor-oil repellent can be made by using
a blender to combine 1/4 cup of unrefined castor oil (can
be purchased at most pharmacies) and 2 tablespoons of a
dishwashing liquid. Blend the two together, add 6 tablespoons
water, and blend again. Combine the concentrated mixture
with water at a rate of 2 tablespoons of solution to 1 gallon
of water. Use a watering can or sprayer to liberally apply
the solution to areas where moles are active. The above
mixture will cover approximately 300 square feet.
The
repellent will be most effective where it can be watered
into the moist soil surrounding surface tunnels made by
moles. Areas that receive extensive irrigation will quickly
loose the repellent to leaching. For best results, spray
the entire area needing protection; moles will burrow under
a perimeter treatment.
The
repellent may need to be reapplied before moles depart.
Once moles move elsewhere, the solution usually remains
effective for 30 to 60 days. |
Practicing
Tolerance
Before trying to control moles, be sure that they are truly a
problem. If the individual mole is not really a problem, consider
it an asset.
To remove the visible presence of the mole's little-understood
lifestyle, try the following:
Molehills: Remove them as they appear or before mowing
by shoveling up the earth, scooping up the earth with your hands,
or spreading it in place with a rake. Grass seed can be spread
over large bare areas throughout the rainy months.
Surface ridges: Flatten these ridges with your foot.
Run depressions: Bring in sand or screened dirt to fill
the depressions, and then reseed.
Passive acceptance: The subterranean life your wild neighbor
leads beneath your feet is there for your understanding and enjoyment
if you so choose.
To render mole activity less obvious, try adopting a more naturalistic
landscape style and let the lawn grow up to hide mole activity.
Cut grass with a weed-whacker to the desired height as required
for a semi-tidy look. You can take advantage of the soil preparation
done by moles by planting shrubs and other plant material directly
into mole mounds. This process eventually transforms the lawn
area into a wildlife-friendly landscape setting where mole activity
goes unnoticed.
Scare
tactics: Although numerous devices are
commercially available to use to frighten moles (vibrating stakes,
ultrasonic devices, pinwheels, etc.), moles do not frighten easily.
This is probably because of their repeated exposure to noise and
vibrations from sprinklers, people moving about, and lawnmowers
and other power equipment. Consequently, frightening devices have
not proven to be effective in Washington. Note:
Be skeptical of commercial products and claims, and make sure
the manufacturer offers a money-back guarantee if the product
proves ineffective.
Food
reduction: It is often suggested that if you eliminate grubs
from an area you will get rid of moles. Grubs, however, make up
only a portion of the mole's diet. During dry periods, moles are
known to frequent well-irrigated lawns just for moisture. Thus,
moles often are present even in grub-free yards. If all the earthworms,
grubs, and other soil animals in a lawn are eliminated by repeated
insecticide application, moles may be forced to seek other areas.
The use of soil insecticides is an expensive approach with no
immediate reduction of damage and little likelihood of long-term
control. In the process, soil insecticides may poison the groundwater,
kill beneficial soil invertebrates, and damage songbirds and other
desirable wildlife.
Barriers:
Constructing an underground barrier to keep moles from tunneling
into an area can be labor-intensive and costly; however, it is
recommended for exceptional situations. See "Preventing Conflicts"
in the handout on Pocket Gophers for
information and designs.
Natural
control: A long-term way to help prevent conflicts with moles
is natural control. Predators—including snakes, dogs, and
coyotes—kill moles. In addition, attracting barn owls and
other raptors, which prey on juvenile moles when they disperse,
may help control a mole population, particularly in rural areas
(see "Maintaining Hawk Habitat"
in the handout on Hawks).
Predators alone won't always keep mole populations below the levels
that cause conflicts in gardens and landscaped areas. However,
when combined with other control techniques, including practicing
tolerance, natural control can contribute to overall control
Lethal
Control
Before using a lethal control, make sure it's moles, and not pocket
gophers (especially a listed species—see "Legal
Status" in the handout on Pocket
Gophers) you are trying to control.
Because moles are territorial, removing them from an area may
appear to solve the problem. However, other moles will eventually
enter the area if attractive habitat is available. Long-term control
is not often possible.
Moles can be controlled any time, but it is best to concentrate
the effort in late winter and early spring, before they give birth.
Trapping
(See "Legal Status" for important information.)
Poisoning
and Stunning
Since moles feed on insects and worms, poisoned baits have proven
to be ineffective on moles. A new gel-type bait has been registered
for mole control, however, it has not been on the market long
enough to determine its control value for Washington moles. If
toxic mole bait is used, follow all label directions to prevent
the possibility of poisoning non-target wildlife species, domestic
animals, or humans.
Gas cartridges and smoke bombs are unreliable. Their effectiveness
is probably compromised by the extensive nature of mole tunnel
systems and because gas diffuses in soil. Moles will seal off
their burrows in seconds when they detect smoke or gas.
If using gas cartridges, use them only on moles that have just
invaded an area, as their burrow systems will be less extensive.
Apply a cartridge into the main tunnel and not into the shallow
feeding tunnels. A cartridge should be placed in two or more locations
of what is believed to be the burrow system of one mole. Turning
on the sprinkler to wet the soil surface of the garden or turf
prior to the application will aid in retaining the toxic gas in
the burrow system.
Because moles are sensitive to concussion, smacking a shovel on
the ground above a mole in its surface tunnel often will quickly
kill it.
Flooding
Moles can easily withstand normal garden or home landscape irrigation,
but flooding can sometimes be used to force them from their burrows
where they can be quickly dispatched with a shovel. The entire
tunnel system will need to be quickly and completely flooded to
evict its tenets. Five-gallon buckets of water poured in the hole
will flood the area more quickly than a running hose.
Flooding has the greatest chance of succeeding if moles are invading
the property for the first time. Where they are already well established,
their systems are too extensive.
For best results and for humane reasons, concentrate the effort
in late winter and early spring, before moles give birth. Be careful
when attempting to flood out a mole near a building; doing so
could damage the foundation or flood the basement or crawl space.
Shooting
Since moles spend most of their time underground, shooting is
impractical unless you have the time and patience to wait for
one to be active at or near the surface. For safety considerations,
shooting is generally limited to rural situations and is considered
too hazardous in more populated areas, even if legal.
Follow-up
Once moles have been controlled, monitor the area on a regular
basis for signs of their return. If resident moles are trapped
out, nearby moles often migrate into and use established tunnels.
(Moles always take the path of least resistance, so taking over
established mole tunnels fits that pattern.) To help monitor the
area, level all existing mounds so fresh mounds can be easily
seen.
Public Health Concerns
Diseases
or parasites associated with moles are rarely a risk to humans
or domestic animals.
Cats that are allowed to hunt outside may bring dead, uneaten
moles inside the home. Dispose of these by placing a plastic bag
over your hand, picking up the dead mole, turning the bag inside
out while holding the animal, sealing the bag, and discarding
it with the garbage. Using a plastic bag in this manner reduces
the potential for flea, tick, or disease transmission.
Legal
Status
Moles
are unclassified and people may trap or kill moles on their own
property when they are causing damage to crops, domestic animals,
or their property (RCW
77.36.030). With the passing of Initiative
713 a special trapping permit is required for the use of all
traditionally used traps, given their body-gripping design. (RCW
77.15.192, 77.15.194;
WAC
232-12-142). There are no exceptions for emergencies and no
provisions for verbal approval. All special trapping permit applications
must be in writing on a form available from the Department of
Fish and Wildlife (WDFW).
Additional Information
Books
Hygnstrom, Scott E., et al. Prevention and Control of Wildlife
Damage. Lincoln, NE: University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Institute
of Agriculture and Natural Resources, 1994. (Available from: University
of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, 202 Natural Resources Hall,
Lincoln, NE 68583-0819; phone: 402-472-2188; also see Internet
Sites below.)
Maser, Chris. Mammals of the Pacific Northwest: From the Coast
to the High Cascades. Corvalis: Oregon State University Press,
1998.
Nagorsen, David W. Royal British Columbia Museum Handbook:
Opossums, Shrews, and Moles of British Columbia. Vancouver,
BC: University of British Columbia Press, 1996.
Verts, B. J., and Leslie N. Carraway. Land Mammals of Oregon.
Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1998.
Internet
Resources
Burke
Museum's Mammals of Washington
Prevention
and Control of Wildlife Damage
|